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  Mayan Ruins of Coba: archaeological park in Quintana Roo, Mexico
view from the top of the big pyramid Nohoch Mul
 

      — waters stirred by the wind —

  Cobá is one of the most important archaeological sites in the area. Built between two lakes during the Classic Period (600-900 A.D.) it was at one time a very large city spread over 80 square kilometers. The main pyramid, Nohoch Mul meaning 'large hill', is 42 meters tall (138 feet) and is the highest in the Yucatan peninsula -photo below. Another pyramid known as Templo de la Iglesia, 'Temple of the Church', is second in height at Cobá and from its summit there is a spectacular view of lake Macanxoc.

Nohoch Mul pyramid  The Maya prospered here between 400 to 1100 A.D. In its heyday nearly 50,000 people lived within Cobá confines, but despite its size it is not visited as frequently as some other major Maya sites. It stands isolated and off the coast, between the coastal town of Tulum, and Valladolid in the state of Yucatan. Besides the structures there are mysterious ancient roads through the jungle called Sacbes which radiate out from Cobá. Smaller trails lead to other aspects of the ruins. These ruins were opened to the public in 1973 but only a few of Cobá estimated 6,000 structures are restored or uncovered. Most are still buried under centuries of thick jungle growth. The top of the gigantic Temple of the Church affords a fantastic view of Lake Macanxoc to the east and Lake Cobá to the southwest. You'll also see many stele, glyphs, and sculptures showing weathered carvings of Gods, actors and complex inscriptions.

  The restored structures are in 5 groups connected by shady, well groomed trails under the jungle canopy. You may see or hear monkeys and an incredible variety of jungle birds. Walking can be hot and the air humid so wear comfortable shoes and carry some water if you really want to see all the major areas. The Nohoch Mul Group, Conjunto Pinturas and Macanxoc Group can all be seen in about 2.5 hours at a leisurely pace.

  Stele There are a large number of stele at the Coba site with thatched roofs (recent additions) above them - presumably to protect them. The stele are fairly large stone slabs which have drawings and glyphs. One stele is dated November 30, 780 A.D. in Mayan glyphs.

  Sacbes Cobá was the hub of a system of roads called sacbes, constructed by the Maya for commerce and general travel by foot. There were about 50 sacbes which were between 10 and 30ft wide; one was about 100km long. They were built of limestone and it is estimated that the manpower and effort required for their construction exceeded that for the stone buildings and temples. It is interesting that the Maya did not use the wheel to aid transport even though they were familiar with it. Transportation of goods along the sacbes was done by people carrying parcels. Some of the sacbes are long enough to have been seen by astronauts on a shuttle mission.

  Getting there: From Tulum at the traffic light insection of the Coba road and highway 307, travel west (away from the beach) and go about 30 minutes to the ruins (follow the signs). There are two interesting towns along the way selling arts and crafts, and a few rustic restaurants on the road as well. Watch the road for potholes, there are also speed bumps at at the villages! Food and lodging can be found near the ruins.

 

» more photos of Coba

Also in the area visit:  the colonial city of Valladolid and Mayan ruins of Ek Balam
   References, links & our thanks to:
The Easy Guide to Coba by Richard Bloomgarden
The Descriptive Guide Book to Coba by Gualberto Alonzo
The Mayan Magnificent Ancient White Roads by Jose Diza-Bolio.
Contibuting text from an Indiana Univ. trip report and from seamonkeybusiness.com

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